-:Block printing:-
- Block printing is the oldest method of the local application of color the textile.
- It is very similar to the use of a rubber stamp and a an ink pad.
-: History of block printing in India:-
- Recordsrds show that as for back as the 12th century, sereral centres in the south, on the western and eastern coasts of India became renowned for their excellent printed cotton.
- On the south eastern coast the brush or kalam(pen) was used, and the resist applied by the same method.
-: Centres of Block Printing:-
The main center for block printing in India are:
1. Andhra Pradesh (kalamkari)
2.Gujarat (ajrakh)
3.rajasthan (sanganeri)
4. Madhya Pradesh (bagh print)
5.Uttar Pradesh
6. West bengal
-:Tools for block printing:-
The main tools of the printer are blocks which are available in different shapes and size as per the design and requirement.
The block makers mainly make two types of block:
1.wooden block
2.metal block
-: Colours/dyes for block printing:-
The process of block printing is widespread due to its intricate process, motifs and vibrant colour.
The main raw material is the colour used in the printing traditionally the artisans used natural colours but today it has been replaced by chemical and artificial colours.
:The main raw materials are colours/dyes:
Different types of dyes are used for silk and cotton.
1.Vegetable/ natural dyes:-
Since ages artisans are using vegetable dyes for printing and dying. As they are extracted from the nature, vegetables, fruits etc. They are beneficial for the environment along with having traditional importance. There are few major colours produced naturally which are known internationally too.
Indigo Blue:-
Extracted from the Indigo plant faund throughout India.
Red :-
This is obtained by mixing alizarin with alum. The colour ranges from pink to deep red.
Black:-
This is acidic solution of iron which is obtained by Processing rusted nails, horse, shoes, iron scrap etc. With jiggery and salt.The mixture is buried under the ground and allowed to rot for about 10 - 15 days. It is then taken out and the colour is prepared.
Green:-
The skin of pomegranate is processed by boiling. Apart from this artisans also use bark of mango tree,vinegar, slaked lime etc.
2.Discharge dyes:-
These dyes are used to print on dark background. The printing colours have chemical which react with the dark ground fabric and bleaches out the dark colour from that particular place and prints the desired colour. In this process a range of white and other light colour can be printed on a dark background.
3.Pigment dyes:-
These colours are readily available in the market and are easy to use. The mixed colour can be stared in plastic buckets after use. Pigment colours, brought from the market are further mixed with kerosene and a binder. The mixing has to be done carefully as the thickness of the material can give raised effects on the cloth while printing. These colour fallow the direct printing technique. Colour applied are visible and do not change after washing. A number of colour can be obtained by mixing two or more pigment colour.
4.Reactive dyes:-
These are the chemical dyes which when mixed with second chemical produces a third colour. Artisans therefore dye the cloth, to be printed, in one chemical and then print it with another chemical. These two chemicals react with each other and hence produce a different colour. These are only few chemical dyes available in the market.
5.Rapid fast colours:-
These colour are difficult to store and has to be used the same day. In rapid fast colour process the colour in the design and the ground colour both are printed in one go. Generally white or light background is used. There are only few colour, available in this process.
-: Process of block printing:-
The process of printing can be divided in to fallowing major parts:
(A) washing
(B) marking
(C) printing
(D) Drying
(E) washing
(a) Washing :-
The fabric brought from the market contains starch, dust etc. Therefore it goes through a pre - printing treatment in order to get good results while printing. The fabric is therefore dipped in a solution of water and bleach for 1- 2 days. It is than boiled and washed with water. Finally the cloth is stretched and spread on ground and left for drying. This process known as hari sarana takes 3 - 5 days depending on the weather conditions.
(B) Marking:-
The cloth to be printed is spread on the printing table and fixed with the help of pins. With help of scale and chalk areas to be printed are marked and proper gaps are left for cutting and stitching.
(c) printing:-
Printer dips the block in the colour and stamps the design on the cloth. The block are then pressed hard with the fist on the back of the handle so that registration/imprint of the colour is even.
- Printing starts from left to right.
- Number of colour used in the design defines the number of blocks to be used.
- First outline colour is applied and then the filling colours. Specific point in the block guides the printer of the repeat impression. The process of printing is called as- Chapaai.
(D) Drying:-
After the printing is completed the fabric is dried out in sun for the colour to get fixed. This is done specially for the pigment dyes. The printed fabrics are handled with utmost care so that the colour are not transferred to other areas, therefore they are wrapped in plastic or newspaper after dying. The process is called as - sukhaai.
(E) washing:-
Fabric then goes through the process of steaming in the special boilers constructed for this purpose. After steaming, the material is washed thoroughly in large quantities of water and dried in the sun. Once the fabric is washed and dried ironing is done, which further fixes the colour permanently. This final Process of washing is called - Dhulaai.
-:Advantages of block printing:-
1.Beautiful effects can be created.
2. Bright and colourful prints are obtained.
3. Any number of blocks can be used not only for different colour but also for different shade in the same colour.
4.Any type of design can be made with blocks .
5. There is no restriction in the sizeand shape.
-:Disadvantages of block printing:-
1. Not able to give minute details to the design.
2. Absence of delicate shading and gradation.
3. Slow output and high cost.
4. Inability of perfect joining.
Written by :- RASHMI JADAUN
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